Luxury Institute News

May 28, 2013

Insight: Luxury brands position for U.S. boom

By Astrid Wendlandt & Phil Wahba
Reuters
May 24, 2013

Most men might balk at spending $600 on a pair of Dior sneakers but for U.S. shoppers like Ephraim, an upbeat 30-year-old, such indulgences are becoming increasingly commonplace.

Ephraim is the kind of man who gives luxury goods makers high hopes that the U.S. market can fuel future growth, as China runs out of steam and demand in Europe sags.

“There is a cultural shift,” Ephraim says while browsing at Saks Inc’s New York City flagship. “Men are becoming more fashion forward.” The growing appeal of luxury goods to men and increased confidence among affluent spenders as the U.S. economy and asset prices recover have boosted sales and encouraged luxury brands to step up their investments in the United States.

Click the link to read the entire article which includes a quote from Milton Pedraza, CEO of Luxury Institute: http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/05/24/us-luxury-us-insight-idUSBRE94N0IY20130524

May 20, 2013

Richemont’s Asia focus drives full-year sales up 14pc

By Erin Shea
Luxury Daily
May 17, 2013

Richemont is attributing its full-year sales increase to demand in China and Asia-Pacific, contributions from currencies and exchange rates and the broad growth from its brands across all regions.

Luxury conglomerate Richemont reported a 14 percent increase in annual sales to approximately $13 billion in 2012, compared to last year’s sales of $11.4 billion.

Richemont also reported that its profits for the year are up 30 percent to $2.6 billion from $2 billion in the previous year, much of which can be attributed to the sales in Asia-Pacific. The conglomerate released its results May 16 for the fiscal year that ended March 31.

“The Chinese and the Asians have a very healthy appetite for jewelry,” said Milton Pedraza, CEO of The Luxury Institute, New York.

“I think that ready-to-wear products may be oversaturated [in Asia], and handbags may be oversaturated, so watches and jewelry tend to be valuable,” he said.

“There are some companies in luxury that continue to grow, despite the global economy.”

Mr. Pedraza is not affiliated with Richemont, but agreed to comment as an industry expert.

Richemont, which was not able to comment directly, owns a number of luxury brands including Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier, A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, IWC, Piaget, Alfred Dunhill, Van Cleef & Arpels, Montblanc, Chloé and Roger Dubuis.

Asian expansion
Richemont attributes its sales results to an increased demand in China and Asia-Pacific, contributions from currencies and exchange rates and the broad growth from its brands across all regions.

The company said that it works on a long-term basis of benefiting from the prestige and heritage of its brands, which will continue in the future.

However in the short-term, Richemont said that economic troubles may impact consumer confidence in some markets. Overall, the conglomerate is cautiously optimistic about the future.

During this past fiscal year, Richemont reported that Asia-Pacific accounted for the majority of its sales, with 41 percent of the group’s total sales coming from that area. Hong Kong and mainland China are its two largest markets.

Europe, including the Middle East and Africa, was responsible for 36 percent of Richemont’s overall sales.The conglomerate says this area’s growth was a result of demands from tourists.The Americas region had a third consecutive year of double-digit growth. This year, it accounted for 15 percent of group sales.Compared to other regions, Asia-Pacific is the area that is leading Richemont’s growth.

“Asia-Pacific is still a vibrant part of the world and there are some companies that are doing well there,” Mr. Pedraza said.

“Some brands are doing a fantastic job in that area,” he said. “Richemont is doing a fantastic job.”

Retail v. wholesale
Another aspect responsible for Richemont’s growth is its individual brands’ focus on retail over wholesale.

Cartier boutique

For the Asia Pacific and Europe, Richemont reports that its brand’s own boutiques had the highest growth rates.

In Asia, the brand boutiques had higher sales growth than the company’s wholesale partners. This is in part due to the expansion of the boutiques in the region.

“Richemont has set out over the last few years to try to keep its own distribution,” Mr. Pedraza said.

“Retail is outselling wholesale, which can help a company grow faster,” he said. “You can have faster growth when you are de-emphasizing wholesale and emphasizing retail.

“Most luxury brands want to control their own distribution. Watch brands tend to be more retail-oriented.”

http://www.luxurydaily.com/richemont-sales-up-14pc-in-2012/

April 29, 2013

Now made in China: Taste

5 Things Big in Beijing, Headed for Buffalo

By Quentin Fottrell
SmartMoney
April 28, 2013

Despite the ubiquitous “Made in China” label on everything from clothing to toys, China has been slow to export its own products and culture. Most Americans couldn’t name a single Chinese brand, a survey released this month found. Only 6% of could think of one, according to international marketing firm HD Trade Services. Some respondents mistakenly identified Japanese brands like Honda, Sony and Toyota as Chinese. Indeed, Chinese companies often sells products under non-Chinese names. Volvo Car, for instance, is owned by China’s Zhejiang Geely Holding Group.

“Branding was an alien concept in old China,” says Stanley Kwong, managing director of China Business Programs at the School of Management of University of San Francisco. “China had been making products for companies like Wal-Mart and Apple, but has not developed many brands.” It’s been easier for China to make a product than build a brand, experts say. Popular Chinese cosmetic brand Herborist is labeled “Made in Shanghai,” for instance, and the box for Apple’s iPhone — although made in China — is labeled “Designed by Apple in California.”

Click the link to read the entire article which includes several quotes from Milton Pedraza, CEO of Luxury Institute: http://www.marketwatch.com/story/how-chinese-tastes-are-reshaping-american-malls-2013-04-26

February 14, 2013

What Recession? Americans Regain a Craving for Luxury

By Nadya Masidlover and Christina Passariello
Wall Street Journal
February 13, 2013

PARIS—While all eyes have been focused on luxury-goods growth in China, another market has quietly been bolstering the business of high-end goods purveyors: the U.S.

French silk-scarf maker Hermès International RMS.FR -0.36%SCA said Tuesday that fourth-quarter sales rose 21% in the Americas to €184.6 million ($247.5 million). That comes on top of a slew of strong U.S. performances for its peers, such as LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA MC.FR -1.20%and Cartier owner Cie. Financière Richemont SA. Gucci parent PPR SA PP.FR -0.44%could confirm the pattern when it reports full-year profits on Friday.

Click the link to read the entire article including a quote from Luxury Institute’s CEO Milton Pedraza:
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887324880504578300291357105904.html

February 11, 2013

US stores luxuriate in Chinese cash

By Yu Wei
China Daily
February 8, 2013

Yu Yang, from the central China city of Wuhan, was laden with shopping bags and beaming, surprised at the ease of his retail excursion in New York State.

Although Yu doesn’t speak English, Mandarin-speaking store clerks at some of the Woodbury Common outlet mall stores made him comfortable by explaining products and converting international sizing charts to US sizes.

“Our customer-service supervisor at Woodbury Common is Chinese. We have several designer stores that also employ sales personnel who speak various dialects of Chinese,” said Jean Guinup, a marketing executive with Simon Property Group Inc, which operates the outlet mall, about an hour’s drive south.

The mall, which opened in 1985 and is filled with more than 200 designer-label stores that sell clothing and housewares at reduced prices, has long attracted busloads of tourists visiting New York City. Now Woodbury Common and its retailers court Chinese shoppers with services in Mandarin and Cantonese, including currency exchange, public-address announcements and other information.

“Last year, we saw increases in the number of Chinese visitors who visited our centers, including during Chinese New Year,” Guinup said.

Based on that experience and inquiries from potential shoppers, Simon is expecting greater numbers this Chinese New Year, to factory outlets such as Woodbury Common and the company’s other properties, including the high-end Mills malls.

“We have been aware of the increased volume of Chinese visitors arriving to the United States over the past several years, as well as the projections for continued increased growth,” Guinup said. “The relationship with our Chinese shoppers is very meaningful and we continue to develop programs to entice and excite this key audience.”

According to a report by Bain & Co, an adviser to the global luxury-goods industry, Chinese consumers now make up half of all luxury purchases in Asia and nearly a third of those in Europe. Globally, one in four purchases of personal luxury goods is made by a Chinese consumer.

Although retailing of luxury brands isn’t new to China, customers there still prefer to buy high-end goods during trips abroad. Research firm McKinsey & Co reports that two-thirds of luxury consumers on the Chinese mainland travel overseas to make purchases, thus avoiding China’s high sales taxes.

Although rich Chinese tourists don’t need to be told what to buy, they do benefit from having someone facilitate their purchases.

At the new Burberry boutique at the landmark Macy’s department store in Manhattan, a sales clerk named Jeniffer, who declined to give her last name, said six or seven Mandarin-speaking assistants are on the staff.

The British brand has put its red-colored products on display in the shop’s most prominent position and will hand out special red envelopes as a gift with purchases during the Chinese New Year.

Montblanc, which sells fine-quality fountain pens and writing accessories, has both red envelopes and window decorations done in a red floral motif with Chinese symbols at its US locations.

“We have a corporate policy to have at least one Chinese-speaking staff member in each of our boutiques,” said Nicole Dabaghian, a spokeswoman for Montblanc North America.

The retailer saw an influx of Chinese shoppers during the last Chinese New Year and is expecting even more this month.

“We most definitely value the Chinese tourist – so far as to have created special products such as a currency holder or wallet specifically for Chinese currency,” Dabaghian said.

China is one of the fastest-growing countries of origin for tourists in the US. A record number of Chinese – nearly 1.1 million – visited the country in 2011, and the US Commerce Department estimates that 1.54 million came in 2012.

“We have seen many Chinese visitors during last year’s Chinese New Year celebration, and we expect to see even more visitors this year,” said Matthew Bauer, president of the Madison Avenue Business Improvement District, a merchants association.

He said three-quarters of luxury stores on Madison Avenue between East 57th and East 86th streets accept China UnionPay, the most widely used card-payment system in the Asian country. Many of the association’s member retailers have special promotions planned for the upcoming holiday.

“To accommodate clients from abroad, Madison Avenue retailers have long maintained sales associates familiar with a variety of languages, and certainly many of our retailers have sales associates who speak Mandarin,” Bauer said.

Italian fashion line Emilio Pucci opened a store on Madison Avenue late last year and the boutique has a full-time Mandarin-speaking associate.

“This will be our first Chinese New Year in the location, and we very much look forward to welcoming Chinese tourists during the celebration,” said Katie Antonucci, the company’s retail director.

She said Pucci’s spring collection has a strong “Indochina influence”. “This collection will be in the store and large dragon tails – a theme used throughout the collection – will be on display in the window of the store,” she said.

The surge of Chinese visitors gives luxury-goods companies a chance to gauge the impact of their business strategies in China itself.

“The luxury brands need to understand that for the future, the purchasing power and discerning taste of the Chinese consumer will be important not just in China, but around the world, in major capitals of tourism and culture, as these highly educated world travelers eagerly discover the world and bring their vast purchasing power along with them,” said Milton Pedraza, CEO of the Luxury Institute, a New York-based research and consulting firm.

“The luxury brands must not only deliver great products,” he said, “but also associates who speak the language and who have the personality and skills to build long-term, mutually beneficial relationships with individuals, not just groups, of Chinese consumers.”

Chinese who travel and shop abroad have captured high-end retailers’ attention because they know what they want, buy in large quantities and are less interested in bargains than high-quality design, craftsmanship, and service, Pedraza said.

http://usa.chinadaily.com.cn/epaper/2013-02/08/content_16216681.htm

November 29, 2012

Wealthy Shoppers Reveal Spending Plans, Attitudes On Global Luxury Industry

(NEW YORK) November 29, 2012 – Wealthy shoppers from seven global luxury markets share opinions and observations on issues confronting providers of high-end goods and services in the new 2012 State Of The Luxury Industry Global Trends survey from the independent and objective New York-based Luxury Institute.  Respondents are among the top 10% of earners in the U.S., United Kingdom, France, Germany, Italy, China and Japan, with minimum income of $150,000 in the U.S.

Despite an economic slowdown and a crackdown on conspicuous consumption, 43% of wealthy Chinese consumers still plan to spend more on luxury products in the coming year. This varies dramatically from the 10% of Japanese and 9% of American consumers who say they’ll boost luxury spending, while in Germany and Italy, where only 5% of wealthy shoppers plan to spend more.

Indicative of strength in U.S. luxury retail, wealthy Americans plan to increase spending in all  surveyed luxury categories compared to last year. Notable areas where recoveries are underway: ready-to-wear , jewelry, and private jet travel. Yachting also has the wind at its back, with 22% of U.S. consumers planning to spend more on luxury boating in 2012.

Everywhere except for Japan, discounting has enhanced luxury goods’ appeal and stimulated spending.  Wealthy Chinese (59%) and Italian (53%) shoppers are most likely to say that discounting has improved their view of luxury and prompted greater expenditures.

“Product differentiation and exceptional service are what keep luxury relevant,” says Luxury Institute CEO Milton Pedraza. “Especially in an uncertain economy, firms need to give wealthy shoppers reasons to buy more.”

About the Luxury Institute (www.LuxuryInstitute.com)
The Luxury Institute is the objective and independent global voice of the high net-worth consumer. The Institute conducts extensive and actionable research with wealthy consumers about their behaviors and attitudes on customer experience best practices. In addition, we work closely with top-tier luxury brands to successfully transform their organizational cultures into more profitable customer-centric enterprises. Our Luxury CRM Culture consulting process leverages our fact-based research and enables luxury brands to dramatically Outbehave as well as Outperform their competition. The Luxury Institute also operates LuxuryBoard.com, a membership-based online research portal, and the Luxury CRM Association, a membership organization dedicated to building customer-centric luxury enterprises.

September 14, 2012

In China, Bikes Shed Their Working-Class Roots

By Debra Bruno
Wall Street Journal
September 13th, 2012

BEIJING — Yu Yiqun sees the bicycle as the ideal form of transformation — and not because he can’t afford a car.

In fact, the 40-year-old, who works as a creative director at Geogrum Advertising, owns 21 bikes, including high-end brands like Moulton, Cervélo and Colnago. “You need different kinds of bicycles to ride in different kinds of environments,” he says.

Mr. Yu has spent as much as 110,000 yuan (more than $17,000) on a bike and considers their versatility an advantage over cars. “People in Beijing should update their ideas,” he says.

Click the link to read the entire article including quotes from Luxury Institute’s CEO Milton Pedraza:
http://blogs.wsj.com/scene/2012/09/13/in-china-luxury-cycles-help-bikes-shed-their-working-class-roots/

September 12, 2012

In Asian Luxury Hotels, Wealthy Chinese Love Lodging With Hyatt And Marriot, But Japan Prefers Putting On the Ritz

(NEW YORK) September 12, 2012 – U.S. hotel operators prove popular among wealthy travelers in Asia’s two biggest markets, according to two new Luxury Brand Status Index (LBSI) surveys of affluent Chinese and Japanese by the independent and objective New York-based Luxury Institute. Japanese travelers earning at least 15 million yen per year ($190,000) evaluated 20 luxury hotel brands, and Chinese consumers with minimum annual income of one million yuan ($157,000) considered 26 luxury-lodging names.

Wealthy respondents rated hotels 1-10 on criteria including quality of accommodations, exclusivity, degree of status enhancement and ability to deliver special guest experiences.  They also indicated which hotel brands they planned to stay with this year, and whether they’re willing to pay premium prices or to recommend a brand to people close to them.

In China, St. Regis (8.41) earns the highest LBSI score, but the JW Marriott (36%) and Grand Hyatt (34%) were most frequently visited in the past year by wealthy Chinese travelers and are the two hotels where they plan to stay next. Along with InterContinental, Marriott and Hyatt are also the two most likely brands to receive favorable recommendations from wealthy Chinese travelers.

In Japan, Ritz-Carlton ranks at the top for both popularity and prestige. Ritz earns the second-highest (7.62) LBSI score, just behind Peninsula Hotels (7.66), but it is deemed the hotel most worthy of a price premium.  Ritz-Carlton is also the most popular choice for the next hotel visit.

“Luxury hotels don’t achieve consistently superior ratings by accident,” says Luxury Institute CEO Milton Pedraza. “Standards, systems and training underpin excellence in any service business, especially luxury.”

About the Luxury Institute (www.LuxuryInstitute.com)
The Luxury Institute is the objective and independent global voice of the high net-worth consumer. The Institute conducts extensive and actionable research with wealthy consumers about their behaviors and attitudes on customer experience best practices. In addition, we work closely with top-tier luxury brands to successfully transform their organizational cultures into more profitable customer-centric enterprises. Our Luxury CRM Culture consulting process leverages our fact-based research and enables luxury brands to dramatically Outbehave as well as Outperform their competition. The Luxury Institute also operates LuxuryBoard.com, a membership-based online research portal, and the Luxury CRM Association, a membership organization dedicated to building customer-centric luxury enterprises.

September 8, 2012

Accepting Chinese debit cards pays dividends

Upmarket US retailers cash in on influx of tourists from the far east
By Yu Wei
China Daily
September 7, 2012

Hoping to attract the business of Chinese travelers, luxury retail chains Saks and Neiman Marcus will soon start accepting debit cards issued by China UnionPay Co at select US stores.

Saks Inc is installing point-of-sale keypads that accept UnionPay cards’ personal identification numbers at its Saks Fifth Avenue flagship store in New York. The company plans to add other stores over the next few months, spokeswoman Julia Bentley said.

China UnionPay is China’s only provider of domestic bank-services cards, credit and debit. Both Saks and Neiman Marcus already accept China UnionPay credit cards.

Efforts to capture the lucrative market of Chinese tourists are not new. The French jewelers Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier, the Swiss watch makers Piaget and Omega and the duty-free chain DFS Galleria, owned by LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, have been taking China UnionPay cards for some time, as have mid-range retailers such as Macy’s, Apple and Best Buy.

“Macy’s has accepted (China UnionPay’s debit) card since 2004,” says Jim Sluzew-ski, a spokesman for the department-store operator based in Cincinnati, Ohio.

“The card is accepted in all Macy’s stores and is popular among our customers who visit from China.”

China UnionPay says its debit card is the most popular mode of payment among China’s richest consumers because purchases are linked to a bank account rather than a limited credit line.

Other benefits: No fees are applied to purchases and the buyer has the option of getting cash back at the store checkout.

“Our goal is to make it easier for our Chinese customers to pay however they wish to pay,” Bentley says.

Like Saks, Neiman Marcus of Dallas will begin accepting China UnionPay debit cards at some stores beginning this month. These include the Neiman Marcus store in Honolulu and the Bergdorf Goodman department store in New York.

The company plans to follow suit at Neiman Marcus stores in Los Angeles, Las Vegas, San Francisco and Boston.

“We like to accommodate as many Chinese customers as we can, and most of them prefer debit cards to credit cards,” says Ginger Reeder, a spokeswoman for the privately held Neiman Marcus Group.

“We have seen more Chinese customers in our stores over the years, and the most popular items among Chinese travelers are handbags and other accessories.”

To enhance its service to shoppers from China, the company has begun hiring Mandarin-speaking sales assistants.

“Every store has at least two or three and we’ll continue to hire more,” Reeder says.

Not so long ago the upmarket retailer only accepted its store credit card, cash and American Express.

“The funny thing is, two years ago Neiman Marcus didn’t accept Visa, MasterCard or checks at its stores,” says Milton Pedraza, CEO of the market-research firm Luxury Institute LLC.

“Now they allow all kinds of payment because they realized they were losing sales by their card policy. When I was in Miami I had to go to a cash machine before buying something in Neiman Marcus because I didn’t have a Neiman Marcus credit card, which was very inconvenient.”

Pedraza considers Neiman Marcus’ revised card policy a “must decision” that proves that retailers need to adapt to customers’ changing preferences. “Smart companies will do it because they’re customer-centric,” he says.

US retailers still have work to do in better serving Chinese shoppers, consumers, Pedraza says.

“We are not friendly enough to Chinese customers compared to Europeans (visiting the US). That’s a lot of opportunities because today the Chinese consumer is a very important global consumer and will be more important in the future.”

A record 1.1 million Chinese visited the US last year, up 36 percent from the previous year, the US Commerce Department’s International Trade Administration says.

The country’s economic growth has boosted the buying power of Chinese who travel abroad, and some savvy US businesses have taken steps to draw in these shoppers.

An example is the prominent placement of UnionPay’s logo at the checkout counters of some upmarket retailers, along with the installation of the PIN-enabled keypads.

Wu Miaoqing, visiting New York from Hangzhou, a coastal city in eastern China’s Zhejiang province, applauded the decision by Saks and Neiman Marcus to start taking China UnionPay debit cards.

“Being able to use the card abroad not only makes my purchase convenient, it also makes me feel good. It shows the businesses care about us.”

http://usa.chinadaily.com.cn/weekly/2012-09/07/content_15741171.htm

September 7, 2012

Rolls-Royce targets blooming Asia-Pacific market in boutique expansion

British automaker Rolls-Royce Motor Cars is keeping its brand top-of-mind with trend-savvy, affluent consumers in Thailand through a new boutique experience set to open in the fourth quarter of this year.

The new Rolls-Royce Central Bangkok boutique will be the first of its kind in Asia. The automaker has additional plans expand its presence in Thailand due to strong interest from consumers in the emerging market, which seems to welcome status brands with open arms, experts say.

“Rolls-Royce understands that Asia has a lot more opportunities than just China,” said Milton Pedraza, CEO of the Luxury Institute, New York. “It has large populations that are growing in their economic and demographic profiles.

“The slowdown in China, while it is still a wonderful opportunity, is causing the brand to move further out,” he said. “Now you have to open your eyes a little wider, and you will find out that Asia is much bigger than China with a tremendous amount of growth opportunity.”

Click the link to read the entire article which includes quotes from Milton Pedraza, CEO of Luxury Institute: http://www.luxurydaily.com/rolls-royce-targets-blooming-asia-pacific-market-in-boutique-expansion/

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